History & Treasure · Horseback Riding in New Mexico

Chapter 5 of 6

A Longer Horse Trip in the Gila: Routes, Stock, Camps, and the Way Home

A detailed Gila backcountry riding story from trail choice and trailer access to pack loads, water, camp, navigation, and the return ride.

The temptation of a long Gila horse trip is easy to understand. A trail leaves the road, climbs out of familiar country, and carries a rider toward river bends, high ridges, and quiet camps that cannot be reached in an afternoon walk. The horse changes what a person can carry and how far the journey feels possible. It also creates obligations that begin before the trailer is loaded and continue after the last saddle is removed. A remote ride asks a rider to care for another living traveler when weather, footing, water, and daylight are uncertain.

The Gila National Forest recreation overview describes more than 1,600 miles of trails across a huge landscape. A route name alone does not make a trip. Diamond Creek Trail #40, for example, is listed by the Forest Service as 18.3 miles one way near the Aldo Leopold Wilderness, reached from Forest Road 150. The official page notes limited parking at its trailhead, stream water only when running, and wilderness restrictions on mechanized use. That is a different undertaking from a short Fort Bayard loop, even when both are open to horses. The long ride has to be built from a specific trailhead, planned mileage, a return route, water, feed, horse condition, and a way to respond if any of those assumptions fail.

A historical Forest Service backpacking and horseback handout describes the Gila Wilderness as a place for self-reliant travel and recommends leaving an itinerary with someone outside the party. It contains older details; current closures, commercial permits, stock rules, and group limits should be confirmed with the Gila National Forest before departure. The National Park Service’s more recent riding page likewise directs riders to check trail conditions with the Forest Service. The forest, not the romance of an old guidebook, manages the route under a horse’s feet today.

The trip starts with a return, not a destination

Many plans begin with a desired campsite or summit. A better first question is how the animals and people will return if they move slowly. On an out-and-back, the group must cover the same ground again, perhaps with tired stock or changed water. On a loop, the second half may be less familiar and may cross a harder road, river, or pass. A through-ride can depend on a second vehicle or arranged pickup. Put those choices on a map before counting how much food to pack. A group that understands the way home can decide how far to go without turning a beautiful view into a forced march.

The Forest Service’s Diamond Creek listing gives a one-way distance and links to Spring Mountain, Caledonia, Fisherman Canyon, and the Continental Divide Trail. The connections make loops possible on paper, but the real mileage, grade, water, and current trail condition of each segment must be checked. A line on a map does not tell whether a fallen tree blocks a pack animal or a wash has cut the tread. Call the relevant ranger district about recent conditions and ask specific questions: which trail segment, which junction, whether stock can pass, whether the approach road accommodates a trailer, and whether water has been reported. The better the question, the more useful the answer.

A long day in the saddle should be sized to the least prepared horse and rider. A fit horse accustomed to mountain footing may travel steadily where a newly hauled animal struggles. A rider who has never spent several consecutive hours on uneven ground may become tired enough to lose balance or make poor decisions. The point is not to choose an arbitrary universal mileage. It is to know the pair’s recent work, the elevation change, the load, and where a shorter camp or turnaround exists. A first overnight can be modest and still feel like wilderness. It gives the group a chance to learn whether horses stand quietly in camp and whether people can manage them there.

One useful exercise is to draw a two-day trip backward. Choose the latest comfortable time to be back at the trailer on day two, allowing for loading and the road out. Trace the return distance and likely climb from the proposed camp. Then look at day one: will the group reach that camp early enough to water, feed, unsaddle, inspect, and secure stock before dark? If the answer depends on a fast pace both days, select a closer camp. The time spent caring for horses is not an optional activity after the ride. It is one of the main reasons a horse party travels at a different rhythm from a group of hikers.

The same exercise exposes a common mistake about river routes. A trail following water may feel easy to navigate, but each crossing can cost time. A horse may need to inspect a bank, the group may have to dismount, and a pack load may need checking after the animal climbs out. Ten slow crossings can change the day’s schedule more than an extra mile on a dry, firm trail. If a storm has affected upstream country, the crossings may be impossible. A loop that depends on one particular ford deserves an alternate return plan or a willingness to wait in a safe place. In wilderness travel, a route’s weakest crossing can matter more than its total distance.

The road to the trailhead is part of the itinerary. Forest Road 150 serves Diamond Creek, and the Forest Service says parking is limited at the named trailhead with pullouts nearby. A vehicle towing stock needs room to maneuver and a road suitable for the weather. A party arriving late after a slow drive should shorten the ride rather than hurry into fading light. If a storm can make the exit road impassable, the vehicle itself may be the weak link. Confirm the approach, park without blocking others, and keep enough time to reload horses calmly on return. A wilderness trip that ends at the truck still requires safe travel home.

Matching a horse to the route

A horse that has spent months on level ground is not automatically prepared for sustained climbing with a rider or pack. Footing changes among rock, mud, stream bed, sand, and narrow tread. The animal needs sound feet or appropriate hoof protection, tack that fits through several hours of movement, and enough conditioning to recover between days. An experienced owner or veterinarian can help judge workload for a particular horse; there is no trustworthy formula that converts its age and breed into a safe daily distance. The AAEP welfare principles require water, food, suitable care, and protection from injurious weather. In the backcountry those are tasks the rider must solve with limited infrastructure.

A pack animal adds capacity and complexity. A balanced load matters because a heavy or shifting side can rub and make the animal unstable on a slope. A pannier that looks well placed in a yard may strike brush or a narrow rock passage. The packer should know how to adjust it and how to stop before a small rub becomes a wound. Do not build a trip around carrying every comfort item the animals can theoretically bear. A lighter, simpler load reduces the number of problems a group must solve in a canyon. It also leaves room for essentials, including horse care supplies and clothing for unexpected weather.

Horse handling on the ground may be more demanding than riding. At camp a horse must stand, drink, eat, and rest without tangling a rope, wandering into another party, or damaging trees and streambanks. People must know how to secure animals using methods allowed in that place. The Forest Service’s low-impact stock guidance warns against tying stock directly to trees for long periods and recommends keeping camp stock away from lakes, streams, and springs. A rider whose horse has only ever been put back into a familiar stall should practice overnight handling before the trip depends on it.

Water and feed beyond the road

A river corridor can give a false sense of abundance. A stream may run at the trailhead and disappear farther up; a canyon may hold water but lack a safe bank for horses; a flood can turn a familiar crossing into a barrier. The Forest Service says Diamond Creek stream water needs filtering when it is running, a careful phrase that does not promise water every day. A current water report and a backup plan are needed. People should carry or treat their drinking water as appropriate. Horses need access to water during work, but the amount and timing depend on the animal and conditions; the owner or guide must plan with actual horse experience, not a guess from a blue map line.

Feed is not simply what can be found at camp. The Gila National Forest’s trail pages state that stock feed brought onto the forest must be certified weed free. This helps prevent the spread of invasive plants along routes and camps. A rider should obtain acceptable feed before departure and confirm current requirements with the ranger district, especially for an overnight trip or a commercial pack string. Natural forage may be limited, protected, or unsuitable; it should not be assumed to replace the horse’s ordinary diet. An abrupt change of feed can itself be a problem for an animal, so planning begins at home.

The group must also decide where it will camp without concentrating stock damage. Durable ground with enough space for animals and people is preferable to a soft streambank or a meadow’s wet center. A source of water is useful, but camping directly beside it can damage the very place everyone needs. The NPS regional riding page describes keeping camp away from water and trails; confirm current, place-specific distances and restrictions with the Forest Service. What matters in the field is the purpose: protect water, allow wildlife and other visitors access, and avoid turning one pleasant camp into a trampled corral.

Weather that changes a canyon

The Gila combines hot low canyons with high country that can be cold or stormy. The National Weather Service’s Southwest monsoon guidance warns that rain over distant mountains can send flash floods into lower drainages. A horse party in a narrow canyon cannot treat clear sky overhead as a guarantee that a crossing will remain safe. Check the forecast for the drainage and high ground upstream. Know where higher ground is reachable from a camp. Avoid pitching camp in a wash or at the bottom of a steep-sided canyon where water would have no place to spread harmlessly.

Lightning is especially serious on ridges. The National Weather Service says no outdoor place is safe during a lightning threat; substantial buildings and fully enclosed metal-topped vehicles provide the appropriate shelter. In a wilderness, those shelters may be far away. Plan a route and schedule that reduce exposure before storms form rather than relying on a desperate late descent. A horse can become anxious in thunder and gusting wind, while a rider may feel pressure to make up distance. Slowing, finding a safer position, or abandoning a planned summit is often the better choice. The reward of a high view never requires a party to stay exposed when conditions have turned.

A weather decision may reshape several days. If a river rises, the group may have to wait rather than cross. That possibility affects food, horse feed, and the time allowed before someone outside expects a return. If a trail becomes slick after rain, a planned long day may need to become a short one. An experienced group leaves space in the schedule and communicates the plan to a reliable contact. The older Forest Service handout’s advice to leave an itinerary remains sound, even though its particular route information needs current checking. Tell the contact what action to take if the group does not report back, and then report promptly when the trip is over.

Finding the route when the phone is silent

A phone map is useful until its battery fails, the screen breaks, or a saved route no longer matches the ground. The NPS regional riding guidance warns of unreliable cell service in the Gila and recommends map, compass, and GPS preparation. Carry a map that covers the full route and alternate exits; know how to read terrain and trail junctions from it. Save digital maps offline before leaving town. A paper map should be protected from rain and reachable without unpacking every bag. A rider does not need to memorize the whole forest, but should know the next junction, planned camp, return direction, and which drainage is being followed.

Route decisions are easiest while everyone is still together and the horses are settled. At a junction, stop on firm ground, compare map and sign, and choose deliberately. A faint stock path, game trail, or old road can look persuasive when a party is tired. If a landmark does not match the plan, do not press forward simply because the trail seems to continue. Backtrack to the last certain position or use the group’s navigation plan. A wrong turn that adds two miles to a walking party may add a much larger burden to loaded animals near the end of the day.

The party should agree in advance what happens if it separates. A rider may dismount to fix a load while others continue around a bend. A pack animal may lag. A group should not discover its rendezvous system only after a horse is out of sight. Establish who leads, who rides last, and where everyone stops if one animal has trouble. The larger and less experienced the group, the more this matters. A calm pause with the entire string together is usually faster in the long run than a hurried attempt to catch riders who did not know someone had stopped.

It is also worth deciding how the group will describe an emergency location. A phone may show a coordinate, but a caller should be able to name the trail, nearest signed junction, drainage, and last known road access. Carrying that information on a waterproof card or map margin makes it easier to communicate when tired. If a rider is injured, the rest of the group still has to manage horses that may be restless or frightened. Someone should remain responsible for stock while someone else calls for help or stays with the person. Rehearsing those roles before departure is much less dramatic than improvising them after dark.

The camp is part of the ride

A good camp gives the animals a chance to recover and the people enough time to care for them before dark. Remove and inspect tack, notice rubbed areas, and allow water and feed according to the animals’ normal routine and the conditions. Set a safe stock arrangement with room to stand and without damaging live trees. Keep hay, manure, and gear from blocking a trail or contaminating a water source. The Forest Service stock guidance asks riders to clean concentrated manure and hay from camps, trailheads, and loading areas. That work is less glamorous than the view, but it preserves the place for the next traveler.

People also need a camp plan that does not depend on a perfect day. Keep warm layers, rain protection, food, and the map accessible. Know where horses will be handled if a storm arrives at night. A camp chosen only for a pretty photograph may have poor drainage, no safe place to secure stock, or no route out if a stream rises. In the Gila, a modest site on durable ground can be far better than a spectacular bend at the bottom of a constricted canyon. The best camp supports an easy morning departure as well as a comfortable evening.

The next day’s ride starts with another honest assessment. Is a horse stiff, sore, off feed, or reluctant to bear the pack? Is a rider injured or too tired to balance? Has water disappeared or weather worsened? The plan made at home is a guide, not a command. Shorten the route, rest, or return when the animal or conditions call for it. A long trip is successful when it brings the party home in good condition, even if the advertised viewpoint remains unseen.

Departure from camp deserves as much care as arrival. Collect every piece of tack and feed packaging, check that no line or picket gear remains hidden in grass, and leave the stock area in better condition than the group found it. Look for a loose shoe or a new rub before the horse is loaded for another day’s work. Count animals and people at the first junction, not only at the trailhead. A small oversight in camp can become a hard problem miles away. The quiet discipline of that morning check is what allows the party to enjoy the next ridge without wondering what it left behind.

A first long ride worth repeating

A sensible introduction to Gila backcountry travel may be one night close enough to the trailhead for a conservative return. Choose horses that already travel calmly together, a route with current information, a camp that protects water and vegetation, and a load the party can handle without hurry. Practice the stock arrangement and pack system near home first. Verify the precise forest rules and conditions shortly before departure. A permitted guide can bring local route knowledge, but the customer should still understand where the group is going, how long the days are, and what the guide plans if weather or an animal changes the schedule.

The point of traveling farther is not to prove that a horse can carry a person where a car cannot. It is to enter the country with enough time to notice it: the sound of water below a canyon wall, the change of trees with elevation, the old trail that seems to lead beyond the next ridge. Those pleasures remain available only if the people keep faith with the animals and the land. In the Gila, the most satisfying long ride ends with the horses cared for, the camp left sound, and a route home that still makes sense in the last miles.

Sources and trip checks